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Hawaiian Quilt Masterpieces by Robert Shaw
from The Museum for Textiles' Newsletter
This is a very handsome book with colour plates showing 48 quilts
dating from 1874 to 1994. The colours sizzle--like Hawaii--and
the full page comment on each quilt directs the reader to look
closely at both design and technique. Information known about
the maker or history of the quilt is given and influences from
America or Europe are referred to.
The individual quilts and their stories
send the reader to the book's Introduction which gives essential
background for seeing what lies behind the enormous, almost overwhelming,
visual images. I longed for such information when, all unawares,
I was startled by quilts on display in Hawaii. Many of the bold
appliqué designs reflect the luxuriant tropical plants
and creatures of the Hawaiian islands, and the spirit of natural
objects is expressed through formalized design. In others, the
design reflects the people's beloved national symbols, as national
identity struggled for life against great power domination and
absorption.
The life of the people and the land they
live in is part of these quilts, as it is also for many North
American quilt makers. Shaw says that an "intimate, personal
and spiritual relationship with the natural world . . . lies
at the heart of the Hawaiian quilts." (p.15). It has taken
time for me to see the quilts as expressing the personal and
social experience of the makers, rather than simply as decorative
masterpieces, and this book has helped me.
The appliqué designs are cut from
folded fabric in a way similar to European decorative folded
paper cut designs. On the face of the quilt the textured surface
created by quilting complements the appliqué. The quilt
back, without colour, reveals a complex three-dimensional design
of stitching.
Flag and other political quilts are mostly
from the period at the end of the 19th century when the islands
passed from independence to dependence and then annexation. They
use national symbols with a freedom which suggests to me a deeply
felt identity with the nation which was disappearing. Contacts
with people from many parts of the world after 1778, and the
new ways of life that they brought, changed and decimated the
population. What we know as the Hawaiian quilt combines earlier
sensibilities with newer ones and continues today as a living
tradition. Some of the contemporary quilt artists included are
developing new designs and techniques.
Older Hawaiian quilts, and many modern
ones, have been made as gifts for a family member or loved person,
and carry the maker's spirit and feeling. "Quilt making
was, above all else, an act of love" (p.15) and the name
of the quilt may express a personal meaning unknown to other
people. Modern artists represented in the book talk about this
in describing their work.
Hawaiian Quilt Masterpieces is at once a beautiful coffee-table book and a
substantial account of a distinctive textile tradition. It is
well worth reading.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
from Piecework (May/June 1997)
If you've ever dreamed of a trip to the Hawaiian Islands to explore
Hawaiian needlework traditions, this excellent book is for you.
The colorful dust jacket invites you in, the informative introduction
prepares you for the journey, and the pictures and text lead
you through a stunning tour of forty-eight antique and new Hawaiian
quilts from museums and private collections.
The distinctive folded and cutout Hawaiian
appliqué quilts look like giant snowflakes, and no two
are alike. Their designs are loosely based on indigenous flora
and are enhanced by the distinctive, undulating contour hand
quilting. In addition to patriotic flag quilts, unusual pieced
quilts, a crazy quilt with a message, there are also examples
of kappa moe, early bark-cloth bed covers.
Although I do have a quibble or two with
statements pertaining to mainland quilt history, Shaw has captured
the true spirit of Hawaiian quilts and their makers. He discusses
historical misconceptions and explains how ongoing research constantly
brings forth new facts to explore and ponder. Each quilt is shown
flat in full color, with accompanying information about the quiltmaker
(when known) and historical background information. There are
no patterns or specific how-to instructions, but there are explanations
of the techniques and design processes.
I wish there had been an afterword. I needed
someone to applaud this lovely book with me when there were no
more pages left to turn, and perhaps to say "Aloha"
and send me gently back to my real life. A resource list would
have allowed me to continue the adventure.
The author describes Hawaiian quilts as
capturing all the qualities of the islands: "They are ambassadors
of the islands, created out of love for these unique lands and
between the people who live on them." Don't miss this opportunity
to take an armchair journey to Hawaii to explore these quilt
masterpieces.
from Library Journal, 04/15/1997:
First brought to the islands by missionaries
and traders in the late 19th century, quilting in Hawaii adapted
to the physical and cultural environment of the islands to become
a distinctive art form. The earliest quilt in this collection
of Hawaiian masterworks dates from 1874 and the most recent from
1995. Following the format of his earlier Quilts: A Living
Tradition (LJ 2/1/96), Shaw includes a detailed color photograph,
a historical introduction, and a critique for each of the 48
quilts. Essential for textile history collections.
Publisher's Note:
Hawaii's quilts reflect one of the world's most unusual and exotic
cultures. Bringing elements of their Polynesian heritage to the
American quilt, nineteenth-century Hawaiians created a distinctive
and beautiful art form that is still actively practiced throughout
the islands. Hawaiian Quilt Masterpieces presents forty-eight
remarkable historic and contemporary quilts, all reproduced in
full color, that trace the history of the islands: from the early
influences of missionaries and traders, to annexation by the
United States and subsequent statehood, to the current concerns
of today's quilt masters. Hawaii's stunning quilts capture the
essence of the islands' overwhelming natural beauty as well as
its people's legendary grace and charm. Early quilters developed
the beloved Hawaiian applique quilt, its lovely floral designs
cut like giant snowflakes from a single piece of cloth. They
also created the unique tradition of the flag quilt, made to
memorialize the glorious past of the Hawaiian kingdom that fell
when the United States annexed the islands in 1898. This volume
offers some of the finest examples of the islands' fabric art,
highlighted by works of such masterful island quiltmakers as
Elizabeth Akana, Sharon Balai, and Junedale Lauwaeomakana Quinories,
whose clever variations on classic designs and techniques, spiced
with subtle twists of modernity, keep these quilting traditions
alive. Hawaiian Quilt Masterpieces is the first new book on the
subject in many years and is sure to become a standard reference
in the field. If you are a lover of quilts, and if the idyllic
geography and fascinating lore of the Hawaiian Islands lures
you, then this is the perfect guide to the exotic and beautiful
world of Hawaiian quilts.
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